BAGNOLI. 'O Calamaro's pizza maker is known internationally for his skill and talent. People crowd this restaurant for a slice of the pizza. The seafood selections are also worth a try.

You can't be in Italy without having pizza, and Antica Pizzeria da Michele is a great place to start. The restaurant still has its original tables from the 1800's. Da Michele only serves classic pizzas, like margherita (mozzarella and tomato) and marinara (mozzarella and garlic).

If you follow the crowds at lunchtime, you may find yourself at Cibo, where the it seems everyone gathers for lunch. Look around and it will be easy to see that pizza is by far the most popular choice. Pick your favorite kind from a list that includes pizzas like Margherita and Neopolitan. Their pastas and fish dishes are also good choices if you need a change of pace. Enjoy the bustling Italian streets from your outdoor table while you indulge in your meal.

CASTEL DELL'OVO/CHIAIA. Saturday nights are by far the most crowded time to visit Ciro a Mergellina. People come here for the pizzas and the fresh fish entrées and appetizers. The Maxi-Pizza will feed four famished adults, with leftovers.

SANTA LUCIA. Da Ettore offers a menu based on ancient Napoleon cuisine, with a specific emphasis on exquisite pizzas. If you are craving something a little different, try the pagnotiello, a calzone filled with mozzarella, ham, and mushrooms for around 8500L. Da Ettore is located near Piazza del Plebiscito on the waterfront.